Saturday, October 20, 2012

Stockholm Part 2: A note about being a poor college student and new international traveler


It pays off to plan ahead as much as possible.  Valerie and I got Stockholm passes for $115 that granted us public transportation and access to the main attractions. This was totally worth it, especially considering how many mistakes we made trying to get from Point A to Point B.  We would have paid for a lot of wrong busses and probably walked a lot more! Public transportation in Stockholm is fantastic and everyone uses it. Also, the busses run on biogas! Even better. Using the busses and tunnelbana was a very good lesson in navigation.  I don’t have the most reliable internal compass but mapping our routes is excellent practice in directionality.  Another plus to this Stockholm Pass was being able to see all the museums we wanted, planning whatever looked interesting in common areas. Not all the museums we went to were very interesting, even ones we most wanted to see, but some of the places we had not planned on visiting initially ended up being the best.

We stayed at the Acco Hostel for about $60 a night for the both of us. We stayed in a double bunk bed room that was pretty small. The first night we shared it with a Ukrainian man named Alex who was probably 65 years old and in Stockholm for an origin of life conference. He was hard to understand but friendly. A little too friendly, actually. The second night we were joined by a Swedish guy named Simon whose apartment was being renovated for water damage and would be living in the hostel for 3 months. Ouch. 

The hostel had lockers and a luggage room; it was pretty safe and had many rules. There was a kitchen where we made meals and stored food. The common bathrooms weren’t bad but sometimes it was not the cleanest.  I would recommend earplugs for light sleepers; snoring roommates in close quarters can really put a damper on your sleep possibilities.  Also, the employees at the hostel would basically unlock your door, knock and immediately enter in the mornings to check who is in the room. A little rude, but they were trying to keep tabs on who was sleeping in their hostel so I’d let it slide. We researched a lot of different places trying to find a safe, clean place that didn’t cost a lot. I’d say that went well overall.

In terms of meals we only really bought one at a bar the whole trip. Otherwise, we bought groceries for sandwiches, snacks, and of course we had ramen noodles. Useful trick: crack an egg in your ramen, suddenly it’s a whole new level of delicious. Add veggies, even better. I bought a thermos for 5 euros in Finland; worth every penny! Valerie and I had many meals on benches in parks, courtyards, overlooking the water and we thought this was one of the best parts of the trip. I think our total for food spending on the trip was about $35-40 each for 4 days.  

As I mentioned in the last post, we cut the price of our ferry trips to and from Stockholm by over 50% simply by calling for a student discount. We wanted the early bird discount too, but for some reason we couldn't get it. As for our Stockholm Passes, we got a 15% rainbow discount on those by booking through a gay tolerance website.  Not hating pays off, people!  Plan ahead and seek discounts where you can.

When I was drawing up my budget for my whole four-month European adventure my Dad laughed, not at all convinced my plan would stick. I’m proud to say I’m currently under budget, eating well and plans for traveling after Finland are looking within my projected numbers, too.  Did I mention most of my Christmas shopping is done? My budget success so far is not, however, for lack of trying. Traveling is not cheap but if you set aside time to plan, think realistically about the cost of necessities and are willing to sacrifice some luxuries for chronic awkwardness and sack lunches… you might just be able to scrape together some change for a beer at the end of the day. And maybe a haircut in Stockholm you didn’t really need. But when it’s all said and done, you can’t put a price on the experiences you have exploring a foreign place, the people you meet, or what you learn along the way.

Bell pepper!

Tuna and crackers on a bus

The best 5 euros I've ever spent was on my thermos!

7 euros and 30 cents worth of recyclables! 



Stalking Stockholm


During our week off from school Valerie and I went to Stockholm, Sweden for a few days. We booked an overnight ferry there and back with two nights in the city in between.  We took a Viking Line ship out of Helsinki on Sunday night staying in a 3 passenger berth without a third roommate.  Somehow our ‘cozy’ boat cabins to and from Sweden cost only 82 euros total for the both of us. It’s amazing what a simple phone call asking about student discounts can do!  We said goodbye to Helsinki as we sailed away and toasted with hard cocoa upper deck.

In the morning we got off the boat in Stockholm and immediately were taken aback by the beautiful change of scenery the city brought us.  We had a very silly time navigating public transportation towards our hostel but arrived eventually. We grabbed some groceries for the week and settled in a little before heading out for a concert recommended to us. We got on the right bus but in the wrong direction (just when we think we’re getting used to the bus system) and decided to go to the photography museum instead.  There were three levels featuring a few very different exhibits. This was one of my favorite stops of the whole trip.  The originality and technique of each artist reflected how photographs show more than just images but a whole new thought-provoking perspective on life.

The next day we set out with maps, transportation schedules and a sightseeing plan.  We went to the Vasa museum; a recovered war ship from 1628 that never made it past it’s maiden voyage due to rushed planning and insufficient ballast stones. It was an incredible ship of ornately decorated Japanese oak but personally, I thought the museum was kind of overkill for such a poorly engineered sinker. Next we walked over to the Spirit Museum. This is not a museum about nationalism but Absolut Vodka!  Exhibit areas showcased artistic label designs, advertisements, spirit ingredients, corners of drinking culture and just plain silliness. It was a very interesting display, but probably intended to be best enjoyed after a few drinks.  We moved on to an Aquarium in the same park as our previous stops. We enjoyed colorful creatures from the rainforest, freshwater habitats, tropical oceans and the Baltic Sea. It was great to break up our trips to museums with some wildlife.

We took the bus over to Gamla Stan, the old town and went to the Medieval Museum and the Nobel Museum. We got a little lost on foot but had a nice time walking through the town and saw some beautiful old churches. The Medieval Museum was an educational exhibit tucked under a bridge. A very impressive building held The Nobel Museum and it contained a lot of information about the prize and its winners. We returned to the hostel to rest after our long day of touring and to plan the next one.

We started out our last day by going to the Modern Art museum. We saw a Picasso/Duchamp and a Wolfgang Tillmans exhibit. Seeing Picasso’s work was very cool, especially a collection altogether. Being able to recognize recurring motifs throughout his abstract work helps highlight some of the ideas he presents. Wolfgang Tillmans’s exhibit was a striking assembly of photographs that came together as a very telling exposition on the world we live in, generational characteristics (especially the dynamic young generation in the 1990s), sexuality, materialism, and companionship.  Modern art can be very difficult to grasp but this exhibit created many different impressions and feelings in the arrangement of the distinctive photos.  Valerie and I felt a little mentally exhausted after leaving but we agreed this was one of our favorite things in Stockholm.

We next went to the National Museum which held more fine art than you could shake a stick at. We started on the ‘Slow Art’ floor, which contained various furniture, tapestries, garments, jewelry, and tableware that takes a lot of time and repetition to create, but the final product is stunning. Moving upstairs we saw an incredible array of paintings organized under a few categories. Pride and Prejudice explored the work of female artists in France and Sweden from 1750-1860 as well as their struggle for professional recognition in a man’s world. Light and Darkness presented Nordic work that uses color tones to create ambiance and contrast aspects of the painting. Modern Life featured 19th century French work that was also very beautiful and unique.  One thing I learned to value about my art encounters on this trip is that art speaks every language and it certainly has a lot to say. I love it!

We finished our Stockholm tour with the Royal Palace. This was our second string option since the boat tour we wanted to take was not operating through the port listed on our map but we were very glad to have visited the royal apartments.  The painted ceilings, furniture, chandeliers, sculptures, hallways, everything was royally lavish. We don’t get this level of grandeur in America. Thanks, Sweden.

We had a little time before our ferry and we decided to get haircuts. Valerie and I had talked about wanting them for some time and we thought, how nice would it be to get haircuts in Stockholm? Probably not the best idea we ever had. There was a salon next to our hostel and we had left a note on the door in the morning asking for appointments. We arrived in the afternoon and looked through the window to see two people in the salon; one older man styling another.  We stood speculating whether to ditch our appointments but the owner came running out very excited to have us as clients (he even cancelled another appointment), boasted about an award he had won and other things so we agreed to come back at 4:45.

We had pictures of the haircuts what we wanted but we might as well not have brought them. Our eccentric Tunisian hairdresser insisted he had such a way with hair, talked our ears off about all kinds of things, and was very friendly… but obviously nuts. We ended up paying a little more than we expected for cuts a little different than we requested but we probably should have thought of that before getting haircuts from a total stranger in a salon we knew nothing about.  On that note, we said goodbye to Stockholm and boarded our boat to Finland.

Upon arriving at 8am we realized the train station we thought was in Turku was a one-rail train without a ticket desk that we could find. We asked a bus driver the best way to Ilmajoki and he told us to come with him to the bus station. We got a free bus ride and considered it a victory before realizing he probably just felt bad for us because getting home would take another 3 busses and about 11 hours to travel 300km. 

We wallowed in self pity for probably 30 minutes before realizing being stuck in Turku for a few hours with a lot of luggage, weird haircuts and a 24 pack of beer each was actually a pretty hilarious ordeal. By the way, we got the beer tax-free on the boat. Alcohol is quite expensive in Finland! Things could definitely have been worse.  We had some leftover food from the trip and we had some crackers with tuna, a bell pepper, apples, some peanuts and cookies to get us home. When we finally arrived we were very tired but happy.  It had been a great trip!


Leaving Helsinki







The Vasa






Relax everyone, we found Nemo. He's in Stockholm. 
View from our picnic outside the Medieval Museum






Picasso's Minotaur theme was strongly featured at the Museum of Modern Art





Reminds me of San Luis Obispo!


At the Royal Palace



Photo credit: Valerie Grant
Our crazy hairdresser

Leaving Stockholm 
Ever get stranded in Turku with a 24 pack of beer?



A weekend with Dad and globalized love


Last weekend I enjoyed a wonderful visit from my Dad.  After business meetings in Berlin and Amsterdam he was able to set aside time to spend with me before his meeting in Helsinki. He arrived in Ilmajoki on Friday for a tour of campus and the town.  I introduced him to a couple teachers and pointed out out him some of the machines I learned to operate at school.  After showing him around where I’ve been living we went to Seinäjoki for a wonderful lunch and a walking tour of the Alvar Alto district.

The next morning we got on a train for Helsinki with Valerie for a short stay in the capital. We spent the day walking around town; the cathedral and city hall were must-sees.  The open-air market around the harbor was packed with all kinds of grilled fish, fresh produce, homemade crafts and more.

After taking a little break at the hotel we went out for a delicious Japanese dinner and got some good tips from the bartender about what is fun to do at night. We took his advice and went to a few bars, each with its own distinct vibe.  Exquisite bartending, beautiful people and fantastic company added up to one memorable night in Helsinki.

The next day we took a ferry to Suomenlinna Island, a quaint old military fort with a charming village.  On the boat we met a guy named David from Seattle who was in Helsinki briefly on business. He was traveling alone and very nice so we invited him to come look around with us. Though the ferry was only 15 minutes from Helsinki, this island was different than anything I’ve seen on the mainland.  Stone barriers, thick-walled fortresses and cannons lined the rocky cliffs but the interior of the island was cozy with wood houses, a church and beautiful old trees.  We skipped the museums and explored on foot before the clouds moved in and it started raining.

We ate some lunch in Helsinki before Valerie and I had to pack up and get ready for our trip to Stockholm. Dad came with us to our ship terminal and we said goodbye for another couple months. We felt so fortunate that my Dad had business in Finland that lined up so perfectly with my break from school.  Finland is not the most popular tourist destination, especially where I’m going to school (kind of a trek out in the boonies).  Spending time with my Dad was a perfect-mid trip piece of home to carry me through my last couple months abroad. I am very thankful that I was able to share my study abroad experience with him and have a fun weekend traveling; we had a very special visit. He even brought me a couple pictures of my snake, Khan, who is getting bigger and turning two this month.  I'm a sad Mom without him but I'm glad he is in good hands. Even my sisters are helping care for him a little! 


Though I'm used to spending months away from home at college, being in such a different, far away place can make me feel a little isolated, but it's amazing how technology has revolutionized being far from home. I love being able to stay in contact with friends and family, telling about my adventures and hearing about what they're up to in California.  Knowing my ever-creative Mom is making halloween crafts with my cousins and decorating her house makes me miss being home but being able to talk with her over Skype helps me stay connected. Even with our sweet dog, Coco! Yesterday I received a Halloween care package from my boyfriend's Mom; a hilariously heartwarming gesture.  

Feeling love and support from around the world is truly incredible.  I'm grateful for everyone back home, my friends abroad (new and old), and this amazing opportunity to experience so many new things. 

Campus!

Ilamjoki
Alvar Alto Library reflecting his church










City Hall

Liberty or Death Bar


Boat ride to Suomenlinna Island



Grassy bunkers









Me, David and Val
Saying bye to Dad

Khan showing off for Khloe the cat
Mom's "Spooky Tree" - made from a paper bag with a rock in it!
Halloween care package!